Hidden Japan, Curated Stories

Kyoto Samurai Experience: Costume, Museum or Real Dojo?

Written by Shohei Toguri | Oct 14, 2026, 10:00:00 AM

In our sorting, the phrase Kyoto samurai experience covers four different things: a costume and a photograph, a museum visit, a sword show, and a lesson in a discipline that has schools and teachers. They share a name and little else. This guide separates them, gives you a way to judge which one a listing is really offering, and explains why the differences exist, from an edict of 1876 to a Kyoto film studio.

It is written for a couple who would rather understand what they are doing than collect a souvenir photograph. We have no interview or site visit to report for a dojo in Kyoto. The guide therefore rests on published sources, among them the Japan National Tourism Organization (JNTO), the Kyoto Media Support Center's film-culture guide, the National Archives of Japan, the All Japan Kendo Federation (AJKF), the Kyoto National Museum and the University of Tsukuba's Budo World site. From our own archive it draws on an interview with a sword polisher and a guide to watching kendo. We give no prices and no booking routes.

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Kyoto Samurai Experience: Four Different Things Sold Under One Name

Utagawa Yoshitsuya, "The Great Battle at Horikawa", Japanese, 1847–52. Triptych of woodblock prints (nishiki-e); ink and color on paper. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Harold de Raasloff, 1918 (JP1115.13a–c). Public domain.

Is a Kyoto samurai experience worth it? Our answer is that the question is missing a noun. A costume session gives you a photograph. A museum gives you knowledge. A show gives you something to watch. A lesson gives you something you do with your body. Whether any of them is worth an afternoon depends on which one you want, and on whether the listing is honest about which one it is. None of the four is better in the abstract.

The same word, "sword," hides different objects. The Kyoto Media Support Center's film-culture guide notes that "Swords used in the movies are made of bamboo for the sake of safety" (Kyoto Media Support Center, Chapter 9). The AJKF's iaido guideline, issued in 2003, says that iaido is, as a rule, practised with a Japanese sword, and that a purpose-made practice sword is a separate category (AJKF, handling guideline for Japanese swords and mock swords in iaido; our translation from the Japanese).

Costume, Museum, Demonstration, Training: Sorting the Four Kinds

The sorting is our own, not an official classification. Each kind is described below in the words of Japanese tourism and heritage bodies.

Costume. JNTO's page on Toei Kyoto Studio Park describes a Historical Costume Disguise Corner, "where you can become a period drama star with the help of professional makeup artists and costume specialists" (JNTO, Toei Kyoto Studio Park). In our sorting, this kind of experience is about how you look, not what you learn.

Museum. The Kyoto National Museum's 2026 feature exhibition on swords presented National Treasures and Important Cultural Properties from its own collection "as teaching materials to understand the distinctive appeal of Japanese swords" (Kyoto National Museum, feature exhibition on sword appreciation). A museum teaches you what to look at, and it asks nothing of your body.

Demonstration. The same JNTO page lists swordfight shows from period dramas among the park's events. A JNTO page for a program in Aizu describes a half-day in which participants watch a professional performance up close (JNTO, Learn the Samurai Way of the Sword). These are performances: trained people do something, and you watch.

Training. At the other end is practice in a martial discipline. The AJKF, whose English pages cover kendo, iaido and jodo, calls kendo a budo (martial way) "that aims to forge the mind and body of practitioners" (AJKF, Kendo/Iaido/Jodo). Here you are not looking or watching but repeating, under correction.

Programs can blend kinds. The Aizu page describes watching a performance, then "carefully supervised training in sword-fighting and exercises," and finally taking part in "choreographed fight scenes with experienced instructors." That is a blend, and it says so. The JNTO page for the studio park, too, lists swordfight classes alongside the shows.

Who Is Selling It: Reading a Listing Like a Connoisseur

In our view, the seller tells you the most about the kind. Three JNTO pages for programs outside Kyoto show how much a listing can say. We use them as models of detail, not as recommendations. The Kumamoto page names a school, Niten Ichiryu, and its teacher, "the 18th head of the Niten Ichiryu school," and says the approach has been "handed down for approximately 380 years" (JNTO, Learning Bushido in Kumamoto). The Aizu page names its instructor, who "developed a style of samurai training known as kengido," described as "a mix of sword-fighting with the samurai way of life." The Yamagata page places an iaido workshop in Murayama, where, it says, the discipline was founded some 450 years ago (JNTO, Practice Iaido at Japan's Iai Shrine).

Read them as a connoisseur would. A classical school with a lineage, a style that one instructor developed, and a workshop at a founding site are three different offers, and each page says which it is. That labelling is the criterion. A good listing tells you who teaches, which school or style it is, what sword is in your hands, and which parts are performance. A listing for a Japan samurai experience that shows only a photograph has told you the least about what you would be buying.

Samurai Experience Kyoto: Five Signs the Practice Is Real

Wabakimi, "A daisho set of bokuto", Wikimedia Commons. Public domain.

What is the best samurai experience Kyoto has to offer? We cannot name one. We have not tried the Kyoto offerings, and none of the sources we read ranks them. What we can offer is five questions of our own for telling a lesson from a costume. Three rest on what federations and universities say about how the discipline is organised, and two are our own criteria.

Is a school named? Budo World, the University of Tsukuba's site, says that a ryūha (school) formed when a master's techniques were set out as a distinct curriculum, and that "if there was no comprehensive curriculum the school was doomed to vanish" (Budo World, Formation of Ryūha). The AJKF notes "many different classical schools of iaido with completely different forms and protocols" (AJKF, The Concept of Iaido). A listing that names its school tells you which curriculum you would be taught from.

Is the sword stated? The AJKF guideline defines the iaitō (居合刀) as a mock sword made by specialist makers for iaido practice, as distinct from mock swords made for decoration. It notes that an iaitō removes worry about injury while learning difficult techniques, and separately that a real sword is expensive and not easy to replace. In our reading, a practice sword is therefore not a downgrade, and a listing that says which sword you will hold is showing it knows the difference.

Are forms taught? The guideline describes iaido practice as normally consisting of forms, performed with either a Japanese sword or an iaito. Budo World says that kenjutsu training was centred on pre-arranged forms called kata until the middle of the Edo period (Budo World, Kenjutsu with Shinai). A program that teaches no forms is, in our reading, closer to the show end of the four kinds.

Is a person named? The Kumamoto and Aizu pages above both name their teachers. This one is our criterion rather than a finding: nothing we read says a named teacher guarantees quality, but a name can be checked and an anonymous "instructor" cannot.

Are performance and practice kept apart? The Aizu page is open about its structure: a watched performance, supervised training, then choreographed fight scenes. Ask any listing which parts of the hour are performance and which are practice. The honest answer is itself a sign.

Ryū, Kata and Iaitō: Three Words That Separate a Lesson From a Costume

These three words are the vocabulary of the questions above, and a listing that uses them correctly is giving you a signal. Ryū means the school. Budo World dates sword curricula to the second half of the fifteenth century, and schools specific to individual disciplines to the middle of the sixteenth. Kata means the set forms. Budo World says that training in kata "led to a move away from actual combat and practical techniques," which prompted some martial artists to question it and led to the bamboo sword and armour. Iaitō means the practice sword described above.

A tempting assumption is that a samurai lesson means cutting things. The AJKF describes the object of iaido differently: "The object of iaido is to learn to draw the sword in an instant to overcome an aggressor" (AJKF, The Concept of Iaido). Cutting does appear in at least one program JNTO lists, at the Iai shrine in Murayama, whose plan includes bamboo cutting, tameshi-giri, with a real Japanese sword. It is one element in a plan, and the federation's own description centres on drawing and form practice.

Samurai Museum, Costume Shoot or Dojo: Which Suits a Culture-Led Trip?

Armor (Dō-maru), armor ca. 1550, helmet 18th century. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gift of Bashford Dean, 1914 (14.100.120a–g). Public domain, Open Access.

Choose by what you want to leave with. If it is knowledge, choose a museum. If it is a photograph, choose a costume. If it is a skill, choose a dojo. The three are not rivals, and in our view a museum is a sound way to begin.

Is the Samurai Museum better in Kyoto or Tokyo? The two cities offer different kinds of museum, and "better" depends on what you want to see. In Kyoto, the Kyoto National Museum, in a 2018 exhibition, says that, among swords associated with the old province of Yamashiro, "those actually made in the capital have always had the highest status, prized by nobility and samurai alike" (Kyoto National Museum, Swords of Kyoto). In Tokyo, a JNTO page for a samurai museum in Tokyo lists an armour exhibition, a hall tour and a dress-up experience (JNTO, Samurai Dress Up Experience). JNTO also lists the Japanese Sword Museum in Ryōgoku, "dedicated to displaying Japanese swords as works of art" (JNTO, The Japanese Sword Museum). We rank none of these museums.

The Kyoto National Museum's 2026 feature exhibition organised its explanation around four things to look at: form, inscriptions, blade pattern (hamon) and carved decoration. In our reading, that is the real value of a museum visit: you leave knowing how to look. This guide leaves out discount tickets, price comparisons, ninja shows and children's programs, because they answer a different question from the one a culture-led couple is asking.

Kyoto or Tokyo? Where Samurai Experiences Are Actually Held

Where is the best place in Japan to experience samurai culture? There is no single best place, and JNTO's own pages show why: the three programs above tie themselves to their places. The Kumamoto page rests on Miyamoto Musashi, who "spent his later years in Kumamoto." The Yamagata page presents Murayama as the birthplace of iaido. The Aizu page calls Aizu the place where "some of Japan’s last samurai fought battles to preserve their traditional way of life."

Kyoto's claim is of a different kind. Budo World records that the Butokuden, the "Hall of Martial Virtue," was completed in 1899 in the precinct of Heian Shrine in Kyoto, for the Dai-Nippon Butokukai, the martial-arts organisation founded in 1895 (Budo World, The Dai-Nippon Butokukai is established). Kyoto also has the swords at its national museum, the film studio at Uzumasa and, per JNTO, a workshop in Kameoka, 25 minutes from central Kyoto, where a veteran swordsmith teaches how to make a 15 cm miniature katana (JNTO, Forge Your Very Own Katana in Kyoto). JNTO notes that the workshop is conducted in Japanese and that the swordsmith speaks limited English.

A Tokyo samurai experience has its own claims. The International Kendo Federation's headquarters is in Tokyo (FIK, Organization), and the AJKF says the 20th World Kendo Championships are scheduled for Tokyo in May 2027 (AJKF, history of kendo, in Japanese). Our own kendo guide is written around reading a keiko in a Tokyo dojo, and we have not visited a dojo in Kyoto, so we do not tell you that you can train in one. If your trip includes the capital, a samurai experience in Tokyo can sit alongside a quiet route through Tokyo.

Samurai Culture After the Sword: From Haitōrei to Costume Photos

Felice Beato, Samurai, Yokohama, 1864–65. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, Gilman Collection, Purchase, Robert Rosenkranz Gift, 2005 (2005.100.566). Public domain, Open Access.

In our reading, three changes explain why a Kyoto afternoon can now be a costume photograph or a bamboo-sword lesson: a law, a long peace and a film studio. For each we ask what it changed rather than when it happened. For the samurai class itself and the lords who headed it, see our piece on the world of the daimyō.

Haitōrei, 1876: The Edict That Ended the Sword as a Public Rank

On 28 March 1876 the Meiji government's Dajōkan proclaimed the ban on wearing swords known as the haitōrei. The National Archives of Japan, which holds the document, records the exceptions: full court dress, and military personnel, police, officials and the like in uniform (National Archives of Japan, the sword-wearing ban; our translation). The ban was on wearing, with the state's own uniformed services exempt.

The sword polisher Nagaoka, whom we interviewed, calls the edict a turning point: "With the Haitōrei it was officially said that you could not walk around with a topknot and a sword at your waist. This was one of the great turning points of the modern age" (Bespoke Discovery, The Sword Polisher Who Chooses Not to Finish). He also says that for the Edo samurai the sword was "one part of a uniform that had to be worn." In our reading, what the edict changed was visibility: it took the sword out of public sight as the marker of the samurai.

Four months later the state took away the other support. On 5 August 1876, Proclamation 108 of the Dajōkan ended the stipends paid to the former nobility and samurai households and replaced them with public bonds worth five to fourteen years of the stipend (National Archives of Japan, the stipend settlement; our translation). In our reading, a skill that loses both its everyday tool and the stipends of its households in one year has to find a new reason to exist.

The AJKF's history records the consequence: the new government abolished the samurai class and prohibited wearing swords, "causing a decline in swordsmanship." A revival followed, which the AJKF says was sparked by the Satsuma Rebellion of 1877 and driven by the Metropolitan Police Department, and in 1895 the Dai-Nippon Butokukai was founded to preserve and promote martial arts (AJKF, The History of Kendo).

A second rupture came in 1945. The AJKF says: "Following Japan’s defeat in World War II in 1945 and the occupation by Allied Forces, kendo was banned." On swords themselves, two accounts touch the same event. JNTO's page on the Japanese Sword Museum says the preservation society was created in 1948 "to save the Japanese sword after Occupation Forces tried to confiscate and destroy all swords after World War II." Nagaoka says of the house-to-house confiscation story that "it is sometimes told that way, but it seems it did not go that far." We do not adjudicate: one is a tourism body's summary, the other a practitioner's view.

From Battlefield to Discipline: How Peace Made the Sword a Practice

Peace is the change that came first, and it is the quieter one. The AJKF's history says that with the Edo shogunate Japan entered a long peace, during which swordsmanship moved from a technique of killing toward a discipline of personal development, and it names Yagyū Munenori's Heihō Kadensho of 1632 among the influential texts of the period. Munenori served as swordsmanship instructor to the third shogun, Iemitsu. The AJKF puts the peace at about 265 years under the Tokugawa (AJKF, history of kendo, in Japanese).

The sword itself changed with the peace. Nagaoka says: "For the Edo samurai, the sword was also one part of a uniform that had to be worn. If you are wearing something you will never use, then, as with a kimono, you want individuality. So the shape kept changing, growing more and more ornate." The AJKF describes a parallel change in technique: "Peace brought about a transformation in swordsmanship from practical techniques to those that were more flamboyant."

The training changed too. Budo World says that training in kata "led to a move away from actual combat and practical techniques," and that doubts about it produced armour and the bamboo shinai, which made it possible to spar freely. The AJKF dates the next step to the Shōtoku era (1711-1715), when Naganuma Shirōzaemon Kunisato of the Jikishin Kage-ryū popularised striking with bamboo swords while wearing protective equipment, "a direct precursor to modern kendo." In our reading, the paradox is that peace preserved the forms and thinned out the fighting they were made for.

From Chanbara to Costume Photos: How Kyoto Learned to Sell the Samurai

In our framing, the third change turned the samurai from a class into a genre. The essay on nippon.com, by Ogawa Naoko, credits Makino Shōzō, a Kyoto theatre proprietor, with filming kabuki actors in real outdoor locations among Kyoto's temple grounds and streets, and says that in doing so "he essentially invented the grammar of jidaigeki film production" (nippon.com, Jidaigeki Revival?). The Media Support Center's guide dates a studio at Uzumasa to 1926, built by the actor Bandō Tsumasaburō, whom it calls "the king of cloak-and-sword drama" (Kyoto Media Support Center, Chapter 9). Chanbara, as we use the word in the heading, means the sword-fight period film. In this account the period film grew out of filmed kabuki, with Kyoto's temples and streets as its sets.

Then the studio system declined. JNTO says (JNTO, Toei Kyoto Studio Park): "Kyoto was the hub of the Japanese film industry from the 1920s to the 1960s, after which the industry went into decline with the coming of television." Toei opened its studio park in 1975. The Media Support Center's Chapter 16 says the idea was to revive waning interest in period dramas, that "The idea caused a backlash from some actors and TV stations that broadcast period dramas," and that the park drew more than five million visitors in less than three years (Kyoto Media Support Center, Chapter 16).

In our reading, this changed who the samurai is for. A working set became an attraction, and the studio's costume corner is, in our reading, the descendant of that decision. The change is still moving. The Kyoto City Tourism Association says the park underwent a large-scale renewal in 2026 and is now aiming at an immersive experience of Edo-period Kyoto that "targets not only families, but also adults" (Kyoto City Tourism Association, Uzumasa Eigamura).

Iaido, Kenjutsu, Kendo: What Each Samurai Practice Actually Trains

Yōshū (Hashimoto) Chikanobu, "Ladies in Waiting of the Chiyoda Castle: Sword Practice and Puppet Kyōgen", Japanese, 1895. Triptych from an album of woodblock prints; ink and color on paper. The Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Gift of Mrs. W. Walton Butterworth, 1979 (JP3555). Public domain.

These three words are not interchangeable, and a listing that uses them loosely tells you something. The AJKF treats kendo and iaido as sibling disciplines: "it is said that iaido and kendo are two sides of the same coin." In numbers, its English page counts 2,027,257 registered kendo dan grade holders in Japan as of March 2023, and 97,220 for iaido (AJKF, Kendo/Iaido/Jodo). Its Japanese page gives 2,081,669 and 98,685 as of March 2025 (AJKF, in Japanese). That is roughly twenty to one in both years. These are registrations of grades, not a headcount of people currently training; that caution is ours, not the AJKF's.

Iaido and Kenjutsu: The Sword Drawn Alone

The solitary image fits iaido. The AJKF traces its methods to the Muromachi period and describes a "Way" in which practitioners train the mind and body through a spiritual appreciation of life and death, movement and stillness. JNTO's page on Murayama says that the focus is not battle but "a solo pursuit" (JNTO, Practice Iaido at Japan's Iai Shrine). Because the classical schools differ so much, the AJKF says, originally only demonstrations could be held. The first All Japan Iaido Championships were convened in 1966. In 1969 the federation created seven standardised iaido forms, with three added in 1980 and two in 1999, for a total of 12 (AJKF, The Concept of Iaido). A lesson may therefore teach a classical school's forms or the federation's standard ones, and it is fair to ask which.

Kenjutsu is the swordsmanship of the schools. Budo World records that in 1906 the Dai-Nippon Butokukai created three kata for kenjutsu, that experts were dissatisfied, and that in 1912 the "Dai-Nippon Teikoku Kendō Kata" was created instead by Takano Sasaburō, Naitō Takaharu and others. It is still practised today as the Nippon Kendō Kata (Budo World, The Dai-Nippon Butokukai is established). The AJKF adds that the training once called kenjutsu or gekiken was renamed kendo early in the twentieth century (AJKF, The All Japan Kendo Federation's Perspective of Kendo).

Kendo: The Sword Replaced by Bamboo

Kendo is the bamboo-sword descendant. The AJKF describes it as a contest in which practitioners wear protective armour and strike each other with bamboo swords, and adds that kendo is a martial way. Its 1975 statement of the concept of kendo (AJKF, The Concept of Kendo) reads: "The concept of kendo is to discipline the human character through the application of the principles of the katana (sword)." The federation's statement on kendo's origins says of the bamboo: "The shinai represents the samurai’s sword." Budo World says that kendo equipment in its present form was completed around the Tenpō period (1830-44), after several improvements (Budo World, Kenjutsu with Shinai).

If you search for kendo classes or kendo lessons, the federation's English site lists keiko-kai, which are practice sessions, among its event types, alongside competitions, examinations and seminars, and the International Kendo Federation lists seminars by world zone. From those pages we could not tell whether a given session admits a first-time visitor. A kendo experience in Kyoto would have to say so itself. For what to look at once you are in a practice hall, see our guide to how to watch a kendo practice.

Japanese Sword Craft: The Blade Behind Every Samurai Experience

The Kyoto Media Support Center says swords used in the movies are bamboo. The experiences that do involve a real blade rest on a craft, and in our reading the craft is thin. JNTO's page on the Japanese Sword Museum (JNTO, The Japanese Sword Museum) says: "Few remaining artisans can forge, polish, and repair old katana, their parts, and other items in the samurai armory and many of these craftsmen are getting old." Our interview with the polisher Nagaoka reports his own estimate that sword polishers number a hundred at most across the country.

A polisher's first lesson is restraint. Asked what he was first taught, Nagaoka says: "What almost everyone is taught is: do not reduce the sword. To polish is to reduce. But anyone can reduce. To finish it cleanly without reducing it — that is the skill." On what to look at in a blade, he gives three things: "the sugata — the overall shape, the length and the curve; the hamon — the pattern that appears along the edge; and the jigane — the skin of the steel itself. You look at these three elements and take pleasure in them." The Kyoto National Museum's four themes, form, inscriptions, blade pattern and carved decoration, overlap with his on shape and blade pattern. In our reading, those two overlaps are the criterion to carry into any museum, before the label tells you what to think.

He also pushes against the image that swords belonged only to samurai: "It wasn't something only the samurai could own; if anything, I think it was something anyone could own." What he lets a visitor do is the opposite of the glass case: "First, I have them hold the real thing in both hands. Not in the sense of drawing it from the scabbard — first, just take it in hand." On learning from a person rather than a display case, he says: "With someone beside you, understanding deepens, and a familiarity grows." He points to how little holds a blade in its hilt: "That it is held in place by a single bamboo peg — a mekugi — alone may be a fresh discovery for people." For how a polisher works in detail, see how a sword polisher works.

Training in a Working Dojo: Three Tiers of Access to a Real Samurai Practice

mariemon, "Butokuden", Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY 3.0.

What does it take to see a practice that is real in the sense of the five signs above? Our own framework sorts access into three tiers. It is ours, not an official scheme.

The first tier is open to anyone: museums, studio parks and shows, such as those described above. The second tier needs you to know it exists: programs run by named teachers and schools, such as the three JNTO pages we have cited, and, possibly, the federation's published practice sessions and seminars, though we could not confirm that those admit visitors. The third tier needs an introduction: watching or joining the regular practice of a private dojo. Our kendo guide describes a similar three-layer access for kendo and says that search does not reach the third. We print no contact details or booking routes.

If you take three facts home from this guide, make them these. According to the Kyoto Media Support Center, swords used in the movies are made of bamboo for the sake of safety. The 1876 edict banned wearing swords, with exceptions for full court dress and for military, police and officials in uniform, according to the National Archives of Japan. According to Nagaoka, a Japanese sword is held in place by a single bamboo peg.

Who Keeps These Dojos Alive: Samurai Practice in Japan Today

Laben, "Kyu-Butokuden", Wikimedia Commons, licensed under CC BY 3.0.

Three things are moving at once, and not in the same direction. The first is the pool of children. Japan's Statistics Bureau reports that the population under 15 was 13.29 million on 1 April 2026, 350,000 fewer than a year earlier, the 45th consecutive annual decline and the lowest on record (Statistics Bureau of Japan, Statistics Topics No. 148; our translation). The second is registrations: the AJKF's count of kendo dan holders rose from 2,027,257 in March 2023 to 2,081,669 in March 2025, which, by the caution above, does not say how many are training. The third is abroad. The International Kendo Federation says it was established in 1970 with 17 affiliated countries and regions and has 64 as of July 2024 (FIK, Organization). The AJKF says the 19th World Kendo Championships in Milan in July 2024 drew players from 60 countries and regions (AJKF, history of kendo, in Japanese). In our reading, the pool of children at home is shrinking while the circle abroad widens.

On what promotion should mean, the federation's statement on kendo's origins says: "The promotion of kendo does not mean merely increasing the number of practitioners, nor does it mean to hold more competitions." It adds: "The AJKF believes that the promotion of kendo should center on the transmission of the “spirit of the samurai” through everyday training and competition, not just as a competitive sport."

On the craft side, Nagaoka names the problem of successors as one of closedness: "They make the technique a black box and don't teach it." He says he does the opposite, and of newcomers he says: "In the past it tended to be said that a sword is something you hold only after you have studied. Now it is the reverse — please, just take an interest; whatever you don't understand, ask us." He also says: "Culture, if you are not conscious of it, is replaced easily." On the film side, the nippon.com essay warns: "The jidaigeki tradition that Makino Shōzō set in motion and that generations of filmmakers, leading and supporting actors, and craftspeople refined over a century is slowly being lost." Each voice is about something different. In our reading, they agree on one thing: the practice survives where someone decides to pass it on.

Choosing Your Samurai Experience in Kyoto and Beyond

Return to the four kinds. If you want a photograph, a costume corner will give you one. If you want knowledge, a museum will teach you what to look at. If you want something to watch, a show is a performance, and it is honest only when it says so. If you want something to do, ask the five questions: a named school, a stated sword, forms, a named teacher, and a clear line between performance and practice.

For a couple building a considered trip, our order is museum first, so that you know what to look at, then a lesson with a named school, and nothing that cannot say which of the four it is. A samurai experience in Kyoto and a samurai experience in Tokyo can both pass that test, and neither passes it by name alone.